By Henry Klein III
Think you know New York State wines? Think again. New York grape and wine products (and related industries) contributed more than $3.3 billion of economic value to New York State in 2004. New York churns out about 200 million bottles of wine each year and is the nation’s third-largest wine producer behind California and Washington. In the past 30 years, New York has experienced a winemaking renaissance unlike any other region in the world with unparalleled growth from 19 wineries in 1975 to over 200 wineries today. Many people estimate that the number will grow to 300 wineries in the next two to three years, which will make it the second-largest wine producer in the country.
Surprisingly, New York’s massive wine country spans the entire breadth of New York State. Its broad reach extends from the Finger Lakes and along the shores of Lake Erie, throughout the Hudson Valley and down to the Hamptons on the Eastern end of Long Island. The wines are bursting with great taste and in the past few years have impressed judges at national and international competitions, capturing high ratings and a collection of medals. These accolades are mostly due to the European grape classics that were planted in the 1950s and are now maturing with amazing flavor, unique depth and high quality. Additionally, vintners are discovering new varietals such as Seyval Blanc, Vignoles and Vidal, creating a whole different taste and experience.
NY State wine regions at a glance
Finger Lakes
This region has been the heart of the New York State wine industry since the Civil War. Winemaking in the Finger Lakes dates back to the 1820s, when a minister in Hammondsport began making sacramental wine for his parishioners. The region has proven fertile ground for winegrowers as a result of the unique microclimate generated by the series of long, deep lakes, which the tribes of the Iroquois Nation believed to be the handprint of the Great Spirit on the land. There are currently 10,414 acres of vineyards in this region and the specialties are Sparkling, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Ice Wine. Two of the most popular vineyards in this region are Atwater Estate Vineyards (Atwater 2004 Dry Riesling, $15) and Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars (Dr. Frank 2001 Limited Pinot Noir, $25).
Central NY or Lake Erie
New York’s largest grape-growing region is along Lake Erie in the Chatauqua region boasting over 18,884 acres of vineyards, the majority of which are planted with Concord grapes, which are primarily used for juice, but also utilized for wine coolers and Kosher wines. Here, French-American hybrid grapes such as Seyval Blanc and Vignoles created by French viticulturalists during the 19th century, are the mainstay. Two standout vineyards to mention in this area are Casa Larga Vineyards (Casa Larga Fiori Delle Stelle 2004 Vidal Ice Wine, $35) and Johnson Estate Winery (Johnson Estate 2004 Liebestropfchen, $8).
Hudson River Valley
The Hudson River Valley is one of the most picturesque wine regions in America. The nation’s first commercial winery was built on the banks of the Hudson River at Croton Point and Brotherhood Winery, which opened in 1839, is the state’s oldest, continuously operating winery. The region is blessed with an abundance of grape varieties, ranging from the traditional NY grapes such as Seyval Blanc and Vignoles to European varietals like Chardonnay, Riesling, and Cabernet Franc. The Millbrook Vineyards and Winery (Millbrook 2003 Chardonnay Proprietor’s Special Reserve, $18) and Brotherhood Winery (Brotherhood 2004 J. Riesling, $10) are among the notables in this area of approximately 500 acres of vineyards.
Long Island
Lastly, with a recent influx of money and interest, the Long Island region is the most rapidly growing wine region in New York with 1,602 acres of vineyards. Long Island may be New York’s youngest wine region, but it has quickly overtaken the state’s older wine regions both in terms of the quality and craftsmanship of its wines. The Hamptons has two wineries, while the North Fork has 21 wineries with over 2,000 acres planted with many of the classical grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. Two award-winning vineyards in this region are Osprey’s Dominion Vineyards (Osprey’s Dominion 2001 Cabernet Franc, $22) and Lieb Family Cellars (Lieb 2003 Pinot Blanc, $17).
Now that your taste buds are primed, be sure to indulge in these recommended New York State wines –or better yet, visit the wineries for an enjoyable weekend getaway.
Henry Klein III is owner of Cabernet Caf, 1814 Western Avenue, Guilderland. For
more information call 452.5670.