By Art Stein
“Al, can you make me…” is a common request repeated to Al Pollock, the owner and chef of Teagen’s Steak and Seafood located in Rensselaer. In a time of ever increasing restaurant chains and standardized fare, Teagan’s stands out as a local favorite where customers are assured of consistently good food—and lots of it.
The restaurant is situated on a nondescript stretch of Columbia Turnpike, in front of a former motel whose units have been converted into a series of small stores, including a used bookstore and clothing consignment shop. As you walk from the parking area behind the restaurant, you pass a small patio with approximately six tables. Entering the restaurant is the main dining area, comprised of about a dozen tables comfortably spread apart. A separate room has a bar at one end and a spattering of tables at the other end. The overall effect is comfortable, familiar and informal.
Though the restaurant name speaks for itself—serving dishes such as Cold Water King Salmon, Pan Seared Tuna, Filet Mignon and Sliced Steak Teriyaki—the menu is diverse and eclectic and sure to satisfy most appetites with numerous, veal, poultry and pasta dishes.
There is a dinner special featured each night, such as Sirloin Steak on Monday and Prime Rib on Thursday and an array of appetizers including Tortellini a la Pana, Escargot Angel Hair, Shrimp Cocktail and Baked Clams Casino.
But the lifeblood of Teagan’s Steak and Seafood is 43-year-old Al Pollock. A Troy native, he has been in the restaurant business for most of his life, working at his grandparent’s restaurant as a teenager. After graduating from Schenectady Community College, Pollack worked as a chef at Chaucer’s in Clifton Park where he won an award as the area’s top chef and went on to become the banquet chef at the Sagamore in Bolton Landing.
In the early 1990s, Pollack and his wife, Theresa, began looking around for a place to start their own restaurant. In 1994, they opened Teagan’s, named after their daughter. The couple has kept it a family affair since they opened their doors, with Pollack’s mother making many of the desserts including cheesecakes, pies and torts. They also enjoy a bustling take-out business.
“My philosophy is to serve good quality food at an affordable price,” said Pollack, as he surveyed the restaurant filling up on an early Thursday evening. “I have many customers who eat here a couple of times a week and usually I know most of them by name.”
While most come for the prime rib and steak, Pollack is just as comfortable preparing dishes from scratch that do not adorn Teagan’s extensive menu.
“If I have the ingredients, I will usually try and accommodate the customer,” he said, describing the seafood stuffed acorn squash he prepared a few weeks back as a special request.
In addition to the restaurant side of the business, Pollack and his wife run a catering business (including breakfast and brunch) for weddings, barbeques and other large parties. Customers may also reserve a room at Teagan’s for special occasions, such as birthdays, anniversaries and baby and bridal showers.
Though the long hours required in owning a restaurant is Pollack’s least favorite part of the business, he is quick to point out that this is more than offset by the pleasure he derives from rolling up his sleeves in the kitchen and creating one of his customer’s favorite dishes, as well as the camaraderie he shares with those around him.
“The best and most rewarding part of this business is the relationship I have with my customers and employees,” said Pollack.
In a time of increased anynonimity and impersonalization, Teagan’s is a reminder of the days of the neighborhood restaurant where people go as much to feel a part of something as knowing they can depend on good quality food. Al and Theresa Pollock have done this by adhering to the old axiom of catering to the customer.
Teagan’s Steak & Seafood is located on 360 Columbia Turnpike in Rensselaer. Lunch is served Monday-Friday, 11am-4pm and dinner is served Monday- Saturday 4pm-10pm and Sunday 4pm-9pm. For more information call 477.9909.