By Carolyn Iannone
It’s that time to replace your snow boots with sandals and your mittens with gardening gloves! Below are five projects you can do to shape up your home this season.
Cleaning your deck
How to: Take a walk around your deck and pound down any loose nail heads with a hammer and clean off mold and debris. To clean your deck, dissolve deck cleaner and water in a mop bucket and fill up a pump up spray washer. Spray the entire deck and then hose it off. Just like that, the winter grime is gone!
Gutting the gutters
How to: Cut the bottom out of a half gallon plastic jug and use it as a scoop to remove debris from the gutter. Dump the debris into a regular bucket by cutting the handle in half and bending the metal to form hooks that you can hang right off the side. Don’t forget to clean out the down spouts, because if they are clogged, even the cleanest gutters won’t do much. Consider covering your gutters with screens to decrease the amount you have to clean them.
Window screen repair
How to: If your screens are letting in more flies and bugs then they’re keeping out, you can repair them by removing the old screen and replacing it, keeping the frame. Cut the new screen bigger than the frame and use a roller to push the screen inside the frame. Then roll some vinyl line in the frame to keep it in place. Cut the access screen off with a utility knife and you’re ready to open your house to fresh air, bug-free!
Metal furniture maintenance
How to: Check for damage including chipping paints, dirt, mildew and rust. Use a wide wire wheel on a cordless drill to remove any loose paint. Then, clean any mildew and dirt off with a mix of 1 part bleach and 4 parts water. Spray on some rust remover and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Remove any rust with a metal brush. Then, hose down the furniture and wipe with a rag. Let the first coat of primer dry before painting for an instant furniture facelift.
Cement repair
How to: First clean the area of cement and mix what’s called ‘concrete patch’ with water and brush on. Next, mix it to a pancake-like batter and pour on, smoothing over with a trowel. It will form a mechanical bond which becomes part of the existing cement. For cracks in walls, you can use hydraulic or fats setting cement. Mix for about 20-30 seconds into a putty like substance and push the cement into the crack, then remove the access with a trowel. It expands as it dries and sets in 10 minutes, so work fast!
Gardening Q&A
By Kerry A. Mendez
Q: Is there a trick to picking the healthiest, best-blooming perennials at garden centers?
A: The first thing I’d recommend is that you shop for plants at reputable nurseries that take good care of their inventory. Plants should be correctly tagged, watered consistently, and have disease and insect free foliage. When it comes to actually selecting specific perennials for purchase, look for those with good root growth. At this point, the size of what is beneath the surface matters more than what you can see. The plant’s roots should be spreading nicely through the potting medium and perhaps even starting to show through the bottom of the pot. You do not want rootbound plants, but this is usually a condition you’d find in the fall, not during spring shopping. The situation you need to be wary of is buying perennial ‘plugs’ that have just been potted into a larger pot and have not yet rooted out in the container. The foliage should be rich in color with no spots, distortions, or signs of residing insects or eggs. There should be no space between the potting medium and the pot; if so, this indicates that the plant has been watered inconsistently. If the perennial is already in flower, pick one that is not covered in blooms. Heavily flowering plants stress out more during transplanting than those that have few or no flowers. Finally, for a list of some of my top recommended garden centers, visit my website at www.pyours.com/business.html. Happy shopping!
Q: Last fall I planted dozens of tulips and this spring there are hardly any in bloom. What’s going on?
A: There could be a number of sabotaging agents at hand. First on my list of suspects are munching critters such as voles, chipmunks and squirrels (notice I did not say moles) that devour tulips like bonbons. What to do about these party wreckers? My method is quite simple. Before planting tulips in the fall, I first drench them in an organic taste repellant such as Tree Guard or Bobbex-R, which seems to solve the raiding of the ‘cookie jar’. Simply soak the tulips for 3-5 minutes in a pail that holds a couple of inches of this bitter-tasting liquid, then scoop them out and let the bulbs air dry before planting. Works like magic! Of course, this taste repellent will wear off in a few years but so be it; most tulips only bloom well for three of four seasons and then it’s time to plant new ones.
Another possible reason for lackluster bloom could be that the bulbs were old or of poor quality from the start. Bulbs should be large, firm and show no sign of mold or other fungal problems. Or perhaps the site you planted them in was poorly drained? Bulbs will rot in heavy, wet soil. If you have such conditions, at least hedge your bet by working in some organic matter into the planting holes and putting in bulbs that can tolerate some moisture such as fritillaria meleagris (checkered lily). Another early blooming choice for wet areas (although not a bulb) is caltha palustris (marsh marigold) that has cheerful yellow flowers and only gets 10” tall. Some folks swear by putting bulbs in little metal cages as they plant them, but to me this is a real drag. Why go through all that work for only a few years of bloom? And then you’re left with all of these little wire cages hiding under the soil for your spade to hit when digging in the bed. BA-HUMBUG! If you really want to cut your losses on spring blooming bulbs, plant daffodils—their bulbs are toxic!
Q: I’ve heard that April is a good time to prune my shrub roses. Is this true and, if so, how do I cut them?
A: April is a good time to prune roses in our area. There is an old saying among gardeners that when you see the forsythia blooming, it’s time to prune the roses. You can prune most roses now EXCEPT those that bloom only once in late spring or early summer. These roses are usually the old fashioned varieties, including many rambling roses. Leave these alone until after they flower and then prune. As far as how to prune shrub roses, first remove all dead wood or branches that cross and rub against each other. Then cut to control height and shape. I usually cut shrub roses back quite hard, reducing them to about half of their current height. When pruning a cane, make a 45-degree cut right above an outward facing bud. Make the cut so that the water flows away from the bud, towards the center of the rose. In addition to pruning for height, also thin out some of the canes from within the shrub, encouraging better air circulation and more light to enter, thereby reducing potential problems with black spot or mildew. Finally, if you really want easy, self-cleaning, disease-resistant roses, then plant any of the Knockout roses. They will make you look good, regardless of your expertise, or lack thereof.
Kerry Mendez is the owner of Perennially Yours, a local business that specializes in low-maintenance gardening classes, design and consulting services. To learn more about Perennially Yours please visit www.pyours.com.
Set yourself apart: Create your own wind chime garden
By Stephen Betzen
Wind chimes are an eclectic addition to any landscape. They add a dynamic element to yards that host flower gardens and water features and can accessorize walkways, herb gardens, and entryways. There is no limit to how you can use wind chimes to enhance your backyard environment.
If you are one who enjoys sound integrated into your outdoor view, you might want to consider creating a wind chime garden—it will set your view to music. A wind chime garden can cover the entire area of your back yard, or be limited to a small section of your backyard landscape—the choice is up to you. The beauty of a wind chime garden is that you can design it to be uniquely your own – you decide on wind chime placement, tone and style. Following are a few ideas to get you started thinking about how you might implement a wind chime garden into your outdoor scenery.
1) Select spots for your wind chimes throughout your yard, paying close attention to the direction and patterns of the wind. Through proper placement, you could create your own gentle, whimsical outdoor concert.
2) Choose wind chimes that are simple in appearance to void clashes in décor styles. This way, they will effortlessly blend in wherever they are placed. When it comes to wind chimes, it’s more about the sound than the look. In fact, many of the more decorative types of wind chimes are not made in such a way that allows for the same pristine sound quality as those of a simple aluminum design.
3) Create a wind chime garden by hanging your chimes at different heights. For example, place a set of wind chimes up on a deck, another in a smaller tree line and yet another among your flowers. The sound will dance with depth across your yard each time a breeze blows through.
4) If you like the look of wind chimes and want them in your sight, hang them where they will reflect the sun as it comes up in the morning and moves down at night. Aluminum wind chime gardens go well with stone décor, flowing water (like in a water fall or a bird bath), and near evergreens.
5) Sprinkle your wind chime garden with dream catchers, bird houses and sculptures. This will provide additional visual aesthetics while providing areas of mass for the wind chime sound to bounce off of—depending on the frequency and directions of your breezes, you could hear an entirely new sound when least expected.
6) If you have a street that runs near your house carrying a lot of traffic noise, consider concentrating your wind chime garden on the side of your yard that borders that particular street. You might want to mingle taller flowers and designer grasses with bold toned wind chimes to create a sound barrier. Then, place lighter toned wind chimes nearer the house, radiating from the outside edge of the wind chime border. This additional placement of wind chimes will further soften any traffic sounds that do happen to make it through.
7) Create a living wind chime garden by incorporating sight, sound, smell and touch into a selected area—preferably the one you will spend the most time in. This can act a stress-relieving vista—the place you go to unwind at the end of each day. Your wind chimes provide the sound and partner with the other elements in the area to form a pleasant sight. The scent sense can be aroused by floral elements and touch can be integrated into the wind chime garden in the form of comfortable seating. Light a large candle or burn a fire in a metal fire pit to create a romantic aura.
8) Incorporate wind chimes in your flower garden on sections of wrought iron trellis or hang them inside the upper areas of a gazebo. Place them near doorways and breezeways for a special effect as guests come and go—wind chimes are quite welcoming upon arrival and a pleasant good-bye upon departure.
9) Create an outdoor room, placing your wind chime garden in an area beyond the main seating area so that the chimes ring as gentle background music to engaging conversations or star gazing. What is an outdoor room? It is a concept that is growing in popularity — a fully-furnished space, complete with a fire place or fire pit, a wet bar and even rugs. The area is “walled in” by trellises, potted plants, stone half-walls, etc. A wind chime garden that sits just beyond the “room” adds an unparalleled ambiance to an evening “out.”
Regardless of your preferred decorating style—whether it is southwest décor, country home décor, fen shui home decorating or something else—a wind chime garden can be a unique and relaxing part of your outdoor spaces. The best part of creating a wind chime garden is that you can make it as unique as you are. Show off your personality using the scents, sights and sounds of nature and wind chimes as your personal creative tools.
Stephen Betzen is a loving husband/supporter/and friend to his wife Rachel Betzen. Rachel and Stephen are dedicated to socially and ethically responsible business practices. Lovers of gardening and simple living. They own and operate an online wind chimes store. For more information visit www.ecowindchimes.com.
Easy come…easy go
Whether it’s called the mudroom, back porch, entry hall, or garage, the primary entrance for the family is the first place things are dropped and the last place things are picked up. Everything from keys to groceries, sports equipment to umbrellas, mail, laundry, shoes, coats and pet supplies are found here. Creating a place that keeps all this under control is becoming a primary concern for homeowners throughout the country, no matter what the climate. Fortunately for homeowners, huge improvements can be made without the high cost of a substantial remodel project.
Minimal construction can make a maximum difference. A partial wall or divider can establish a compact anteroom while controlling the clutter with handy storage and seating space. Built-ins maximize space and can include kid-friendly cubbies and baskets to stow gloves, scarves, hats, and sports equipment; hooks for keys, book bags and outerwear; and specialized shelves for storing wet and muddy boots and sneakers. For those blessed with abundant space, the primary entry can become a multi-functional great room, serving as “home central” for clothing care needs, hobby and office space, pet shelter and mudroom.
A wide variety of surfaces are available that withstand abuse from kids, pets or frequent traffic, yet add beauty and style to the home. No matter how large or small your space is, the essentials are:
• Hardy wall coverings, such as wood bead board, vinyl wallpaper, or washable latex paint.
• Tile, vinyl or laminate flooring for easy cleanup (a woven rug adds a splash of color and catches soil).
• Can or track lighting, a pendant light or a glass-panel door to ensure a welcome and safe entry day or night.
• Melamine laminate shelving for easy to clean, water-resistant storage; it is available in attractive solid colors and wood-grain finishes.
• Practical, multipurpose furnishings—inexpensive freestanding bins and shelves can work, but built-ins look neater last longer, and are customized for maximum functionality.
• Consider how each family member will use the space, and assign areas accordingly: give young children the lower bins, and hanging areas; adolescents and adults can reach higher shelving, baskets and hanging areas. Don’t forget the pets —or the space above your head.
Submitted courtesy of Joy Rafferty of California Closets located at 12 Petra Lane, Albany. For more information call 218.7883 or visit www.calclosets.com.
Low-maintenance perennial gardening—reality or myth?
By Kerry Mendez
If you are like many people I talk with, you probably feel low-maintenance perennial gardening is a big-time myth. We throw up our arms in exasperation as our gardens mock us with their disheveled, lackluster appearances while screaming for attention. In many cases poor plant choices or maintenance practices are the culprits. Or, perhaps it is the misguided notion that low-maintenance means no maintenance. In any case, our gardens act like out-of-control, unruly children. Well, it is time to reclaim the driver’s seat, take the bull by the horns and bring order out of chaos. No more allowing our gardens to bully us around. I hope the following practical tips on how to choose well behaved ‘model children’ for your gardens will start tipping the scale in your favor.
Don’t zone out
Pick plants that are appropriate for your hardiness zone. Hardiness zones range from 1 to 11. The higher the number, the warmer the winters need to be for the plant to survive. Most gardens in the Capital District and southern Adirondack region are zones 4 or 5, although higher elevations and more northern points may fall into the zone 3 range. A zone 4 plant should winter over in temperatures as low as 20 to 30 degrees below zero; zone 5 plants should handle 10 to 20 degrees below zero. And a zone 3 plant should be able to endure winters as cold as 30 to 40 degrees below zero. Please note I said should make it through the winter. Let’s face it, all living things eventually die – it may be due to Old Man Winter, a weakened state caused by disease, or simply a dog using the plant as a fire hydrant.
Personally, I refuse to put down any winter mulches as a protective blanket on my gardens. If a perennial can’t make it through the winter without assistance, I’ll find one that can. That is why I have mostly zone 4 plants in my Ballston Spa gardens. Tough love…it works! And for goodness sake, a plant that is labeled as a ‘tender perennial’ has no business shacking-up in my low-maintenance perennial beds.
Watch out for thugs in disguise
Thugs. They usually go “under cover” as gifts from well-intentioned friends. Thugs can be nuisances in two ways—either they can’t keep their roots to themselves and are on a mission to take over the entire garden, or they sow their fertile little seeds with great zeal all over the place. Both infractions result in aggressive reining-in maneuvers on our part, or, if we are talking about any plants in the mint family—calling in a SWAT team!
How can we prevent this maintenance nightmare? Pretty simple. First, the next time a friend comes bearing gifts (perennials that is), take three steps back before accepting the plants and ask why they have such a surplus of, let’s say, obedient plant (physostegia). Many times their response will include red-flag words such as: “invasive”, “groundcover” (HINT!), “fast spreader” or “jubilant self-sower”. If this is the case, before planting a potential renegade in your garden, take precautionary measures. Place it in a plastic pot with the bottom cut off (be sure to leave 5”-6” of siding on the pot) and sink it into the garden or surround the plant with landscaping edging to make an interesting prison for the plant to roam within (again, be sure the edging reaches down into the soil at least 5”or more). Remember, you’re the boss; you’re in charge of defining its play area, not the other way around. If rampant reseeding is the plant’s bad habit, then be on top of deadheading spent blooms before they go to seed. This is one of those times when itchy fingers do come in handy! Finally, if you are buying perennials at garden centers, be on the lookout for plant tags that include the word ‘vigorous’. The grower is not referring to the plant’s ‘workout pace’; rather, vigorous is more ‘consumer-friendly’ than invasive. And if you read ‘groundcover’ then don’t blame it when it does cover the ground—you’ve been given fair warning! Some potential thugs to watch for are: bee balm (monarda), obedient plant (physostegia), plants in the lysimachia family (gooseneck, circle flower), yellow primrose (oenethera), some yarrows (achillea), chinese lantern (physalis) and, of course, mint.
The A Team
Move aside all of your delicate, frail, attention-demanding prima donnas. Low-maintenance flower gardens are the workout arenas for no-nonsense, long-blooming, disease-resistant perennials. I want workhorses that will make me look good without excessive preening or nursing. My mantra is: “Give me four plus weeks of flowers or attention-grabbing foliage, or move to the back of the line.” And my perennial A Team can’t require a lot of deadheading, staking, frequent divisions, or chasing after spreading roots and flying seeds. Aren’t I the demanding one? Yes – and you should be too! Top team players on my roster include repeat blooming daylilies, threadleaf coreopsis (i.e. Moonbeam), lady’s mantle, Helen’s Flower (Helenium), sedums, black-eyed susans, foam flowers (tiarellas), various hostas, coral bells, Bishops Hat (epimediums), Russian Sage (needs sharp drainage), toad lily (Tricyrtus). So go ahead and build your own ‘superbowl flower team’ by adding some of these stalwarts to your gardens and stand back for the applause.
Befuddling Biennials
Okay, let’s cut to the chase on this one. Biennials have a two-year life cycle. The first year—leaves; second year—flowers; third year—dead. Not a ‘happily ever after Cinderella story’ unless you’re careful to allow some flowers to go to seed and sow themselves in the garden to insure more flowers the following year. Most biennials produce ‘free-spirited’ seedlings that germinate wherever the breeze may carry them, which may require you to dig and replant the little gypsies to spots in the garden where you want them. All of this translates into planning ahead, plus time and effort on our part (like parenting). So, to ‘biennial’ or ‘not-to-biennial’—that’s your call. They are not the ‘no brainers’ like those on my A Team, but many of us still insist they deserve a spot in our low-maintenance gardens. Some commonly sold biennials in this area are foxglove, sweet William, Canterbury bells, forget-me-nots, many hollyhocks, Dames rocket and English daisy (bellis perennis).
The above plant-screening checklist helps me grow well-behaved perennial gardens and I hope it helps you master your garden as well. There is also maintenance-related practices including: healthy mulching, matching plants to their required light conditions, proper watering and maintaining good air circulation between plants to reduce insect and disease problems. The bottom line is that you should not feel in bondage to frazzled perennial gardens. Everyday life has enough ‘challenging weeds’ in it already—so roll up your sleeves, adopt a tough love approach and create that dream garden you’ve always wanted!
Kerry Mendez is the owner of Perennially Yours, a local business that specializes in low-maintenance gardening classes, design and consulting services. To learn more about Perennially Yours please visit www.pyours.com.
How to pick up the most necessary gardening tools?
By Robbie Darmona
Gardening tools are extremely important for everyone who wants to make his own garden. But some people often get stuck when choosing the most appropriate tools to fit their needs. Upon deciding to work on your garden, you need to take to your attention the list of basic gardening tools that are going to be presented below.
The hoe. A hoe is absolutely essential as a gardening tool. It is used when weeding and cultivating the soil. Digging with a hoe allows nutrients and water to penetrate easier in the soil.
The spading fork. Is another tool for digging the soil. It is perfect for improving hard soil and it is basically used for breaking up the ground. A spading fork is similar to pitchforks in appearance, the difference being its shorter handle and larger tines.
The rake. A rake is useful for leveling the soil after it has been turned. It also cleans the ground surface from any tough clods of earth or larger stones that can obstruct the planting. Make sure you buy a bow rake. The bow rake has short tines on one side attached to a metal frame—the so-called “bow”. The flat side of the bow rake can be used for smoothing the soil before plants are sown.
The shovel. If you buy a shovel, choose a round-ended. This gardening tool serves for digging the soil and for forming the beds before the plants are sown. Shrubs and trees can also be planted using a shovel.
The shears. A pair of garden shears is irreplaceable. Choose the pair that best fits to your hand and don’t rush to the most expensive one if you haven’t tried pruning before. Shears are also called clippers. This gardening tool is used for pruning the plants and trees, for shaping the hedge and for removing unnecessary foliage.
The watering can. It is a gardening tool for watering all kinds of smaller plants. For trees and larger shrubs you need to use a watering system. The length of the nozzle determines how far-reaching the water flow will be. The longer the nozzle, the more gentle and far-reaching the water flows. Another tip upon buying a watering can is to buy one with a detachable spray head—so that after removing it, you can water young seedlings.
This list can protect you from spending your money on something completely unnecessary, or on tools too specialized for your needs. Most of the gardening tools offered on stores are utterly useless for the new beginner, and some of them are too expensive. Most gardeners consider a shovel or spade, a trowel, a rake and a hoe the minimum equipment necessary for taking care of your garden. Of course, the specificity of the gardening tools which you may need depends on the effects you want to achieve, also on the size of your garden and on your abilities as a gardener. If you are a novice, you should follow the list and supply yourself with these basic gardening tools first. These gardening tools are sold in a large variety of shape and colors, suitable for any aesthetic preference.
If you have a flair for bargaining, you may buy the basic gardening tools at the overall price of less than $100. You’d better wait for the end of the gardening season when the prices are lower. Look in gardening stores, flea markets and yard sales as well, before spending your money on a given tool. Remember that your gardening tools are to last for many years and be careful what you choose.
Robbie Darmona is an article writer who writes on a wide variety of subjects. Visit www.robbiedarmona.com for more information.
Paradise on a patio…or anywhere you please for that matter
By Linda Sedlmayer
The glory of container gardening is that they can go anywhere. No need to worry about soil conditions, they are always good thanks to Miracle-Gro. Sun or shade, it’s your choice. This year promises to be the best for everyone. The old traditionals have gotten bigger and brighter, there is a plethora of brightly colored tropicals or temperennials as they are sometimes called, in literally hundreds of varieties coming in from around the globe.
This year, we are experiencing some definite trends in container gardening:
• One is creating monocultures—matching containers with patio furniture. Why? It’s easy and creates a harmonious garden setting for entertaining. There are sun impatiens out there to match every place setting.
• Planting trees and shrubs in pots. They create instant height and architectural structure to your planting. However, they will require special care if you want to winter them over in their pots.
• If you are willing to wait a little, grasses like miscanthis sinenesis’ ‘Graziella’ will also give you splendid height and that dreamy sway that blows away the tension of your day on a warm summer’s evening. Cannas (preferably started in early spring), banana plants and bamboos can all be jumped-started if you have access to a heated greenhouse.
• Do not overlook some of the old standards that are spectacular cultivators, such as coleus. The “new” varieties of sun coleus may surprise you. Be prepared for some big plants like ‘Texas Parking Lot,’ ‘Inky Fingers,’ (one of my favorites because it goes with everything) and ‘Religious Radish.’
• It’s okay to mix and match shrubs, perennials and annuals. You can create some spectacular mini-gardens by letting what you may feel are too many things have a free-for-all in the pot. Amaze your friends as they grow up, around and through each other. In the garden this can be a disaster, but in the pot, something strange and wonderful takes place.
• Brown grasses are coming on swiftly. We saw it when carex buchanii came on the scene some years ago. Nicknamed ‘dead sedge’ by its deriders, it has since been joined by such superstars as carex ‘Toffee Twist’. Other great neutrals include heuchera ‘Ginger Ale’ (which may be hard to find) and more widely available ‘Marmalade’ and ‘Peach Flambee.’
A word about containers themselves—anything goes.
With the exception of those plants that need no drainage, water or bog plants, you need to poke or drill some drain holes somehow in whatever item you select. If your container has too many holes or cracks in it already, you can keep soil from leaving by lining it with landscape or weed barrier cut in whatever size and inserted as a liner. Make sure you select a product that allows air and water to pass through.
Once you’ve selected your container, let your imagination run wild! If you have small children, create a wading pool for them and one for plants and wildlife. Select water lilies, like tropicals that don’t need great depth of water, some water reeds and water cannas. Add a few surface plants like water lettuce or water hyacinth and you have created a child-oriented water garden. And, as an extra bonus, if you build it, they will come—frogs, butterflies, birds and bugs. If you put in a small fountain to keep the water moving you probably will be all right otherwise I would put in a mosquito dunk that prevents mosquitoes from infesting the water.
Water does not always have to squirt out of something or be in a hole in the ground. A deep ceramic pot can hold a single waterlily, dwarf papyrus or float some water hyacinth (full sun only) to create an elegant pool.
Extending the season
Changing containers is a great way to extend your growing season. In March, I hang out my pansy balls (pansies in 12” hanging baskets with portholes into which small plants have been poked). When they fill out, they appear to form a ball of color. Late snow and ice storms will not affect them.
Bulbs in containers come next. But isn’t it too late for that? My solution is to forage everywhere from Price Chopper on down for bulbs that haven’t broken bud yet. I plant them in combination with ivy and pretend I am reaping the benefits of last fall’s labor.
Come early spring and summer, the selection of plants is far too numerous to recount, but when we hit the end of summer, early fall, those poor babies have had it. Despite your best efforts, they are leggy, not flowering prolifically if at all. Be brave, it is time to do the merciful thing and take them to the compost heap where they now belong. Besides, the sedums, ajugas and grasses, early mums, asters and rudbeckias are looking stellar.
The late season container can be punched up with the seemingly unlimited colors of dahloas. Boltonias, the ornamental goldenrods (from the tall to the little guys), and monk’s hoods are great for that time of year if you need size. There is a great new perennial sunflower out there that blooms magnificently in October. If you put sweet autumn clematis in a pot with a trellis, this is the time to cash in on the big reward.
Your local growers and nursery shops can provide you with endless choices. It’s April—time to start scouting around for potential pots. Let your creativity soar as you make your own Eden in containers.
After all is said and done, this is about having fun. Some industry gurus say that the average life span of a container planting is only 21 days. Why? Chronic under-watering. These big guys take daily soaking, twice on blazing hot days. The spectacular petunias and verbenas demand frequent fertilizing. Most professionals feed with every watering. Read those labels! If you want results, you have to treat them right.
Linda Sedlmayer owns Secret Gardens in Hannacroix. She can be reached at 756.8973 or email secretgardensny@yahoo.com.
Ekornes-Stressless
EKORNES of Norway, in the town of Sykkylen are the developers of the patented Stressless system. Known for support and comfort, a Stressless recliner, or reclining loveseat, couch or sectional, is the only seating endorsed by The American Chiropractor’s Association. Comfort, function and quality—that’s the signature of Ekornes-Stressless.
The patented system has an automatically adjusting lumbar support that keeps your back in a comfortable well-supported position during the entire reclining phase. The Stressless system also supports your head and neck properly by adjusting as you recline. You can recline almost all the way and the system keeps you properly supported and looking forward, not looking up at the ceiling. And then if you choose, pull lightly on the headrest and the head support releases to allow you to fully recline. It’s your choice to either recline while looking forward (thus allowing you to read, watch television, or carry on a conversation) or pull on the headrest to recline fully and take a nap.
Stressless recliners come in small, medium and large sizes. Smaller people who have never been able to find a comfortable recliner, now can. A Stressless recliner is truly a custom fit chair so no matter what your body size, you can find a chair that supports you properly and is comfortable. Some Stressless seating also come with a vertically adjustable headrest, a great feature for a tall person. The recliners come with foot stools, which can be placed so your heels are just off the edge of the ottoman. This foot position takes the tension off your knees and hips and allows your back to be properly aligned by the Stressless system. The recliners also swivel, and an elevator ring can be easily installed to the ottoman or chair to raise it up to make getting in and out of the recliner easier.
An Ekornes-Stressless chair comes with a 10-year warranty. Small wonder, they are made of Norwegian beech wood, cold rolled steel and high-density foam. Seating comes in top grain quality leather or microfiber. Quality, style, selection, comfort and support—that is what you can expect from Ekornes-Stressless.
Tempur-Pedic Swedish Mattress System or Norwegian Ekornes-Stressless Seating, innovative and health conscious products that feel good and are good for you.
Paul Balzer is owner Owner European Comfort Fine Furniture for Healthy Living located at The Crossing, Clifton Park. For more information call 371.2900 or visit www.europeancomfortfurniture.com.
Can water help?
By Rick Van Ness
It’s been long known that regular use of water for therapy has tremendous benefits on the body and mind. Looking back centuries ago you can easily find how common soaking in hot water was.
There are a variety of reasons people consider investing in a hot tub/spa. Some like the look of having a spa on their property; others enjoy a good reason to get outdoors in the middle of the winter. And of course there are those that understand what everyone will receive from a spa, regardless of the original reason for the purchase—hydrotherapy.
Hydrotherapy is an extremely effective means of removing many types of stress from the body and mind. The warm water alone causes blood vessels to dilate, dramatically increasing blood flow throughout the entire body. This brings much needed oxygen even to the far reaches of the body, helping to alleviate aches and pains, and speeding the recovery of tired or injured muscles and joints. Enter powerful jets, and you now have a combination of therapeutic methods that compound each other. Enjoying a deep tissue massage while soaking in warm water promotes peace in the mind, relieves stress and further allows the body to recharge itself and be ready for the next day. Turn on the air injection, and you now have a bubbling oasis promoting circulation even more. The entire hydrotherapy experience, when done near bedtime, also allows one to enjoy a very deep, undisturbed sleep.
Hot tub/spas at this time are much different than even a few years ago, where a simple tub full of water with a few jets and a heater was called a spa. We now enjoy spas that are specifically engineered to offer the highest level of hydrotherapy possible, placing the right number of jets in the right places, and supplying the proper amount of power for them. Foot massage and neck/shoulder massage stations and pinpoint massages are some examples of what to look for in a spa. If considering the purchase of a spa, be certain to take your time and truly understand what you are looking at. The hot tub industry as a whole is very complex, with endless options and functions difficult, if not impossible, to understand. As with most any product, if the manufacturer offers a very limited and exclusive warranty, be careful! Take the time to dig into the facts and you will find there are top quality spas available at reasonable prices.
Always consult with your doctor first before using a hot tub/spa.
Rick Van Ness is owner of WholesaleRecreation.com at 25 Walker Way in Colonie. He can be reached at 368.8324.
5 backyard patio ideas
By Scott Stadler
Thinking of creating a new patio in your backyard? Need a few ideas? Read on to learn about ideas that will be sure to please.
Combine patios and decks
A common, yet still exciting backyard idea is to combine a patio built of stone, brick, concrete or other typical patio materials with a traditional wooden or composite deck. Or, try building a patio with a wooden decked gazebo or observation area. This effect makes for a great private area to set up a dining or conversational enclave, really setting your patio apart from the rest!
The ultimate outdoor kitchen
While not one of the cheapest backyard patio ideas, creating a gourmet outdoor kitchen will be sure to impress everyone! Think about the perks and advantages of being able to entertain exclusively outdoors without even having to go inside. For the cook, there’s a huge variety of grills and ranges specifically designed for permanent patio installation. We’re not talking your ordinary everyday charcoal or gas grill here (although there’s certainly nothing wrong with that either).
How about an outdoor built–in refrigerator or wine cooler? Or design a built–in ice pit to chill your favorite beverages on a warm summer night. Oh, and for those cool nights, to get some extra life from your patio, don’t forget to add an outdoor patio fireplace. They can be had to burn wood or propane, or you can go all out and have a pro install a gas line for you.
Old fashioned style and charm
Bring back the Victorian age with a patio that is designed to fit the time period. Porch swings and old fashioned rocker chairs can help to evoke the feeling of a bygone era. Or perhaps you want something a little more modern, but still with a funky retro vibe. Find some old metal rocking chairs at an auction and build in an area for shuffleboard. Eclectic, yet fun backyard patio ideas!
Soothing water garden
The idea for a backyard patio water garden can be simple to accomplish or can be taken to any level of extremes you desire. Put in a simple patio fountain to create the atmosphere of nature that only trickling water can do. Or combine that with a full blown water garden including a fish pond with a water fall. You decide how far to take this idea…
Nothing wrong with turf
For another unique backyard patio idea, think about inverting the whole layout. If you have a small back yard or area for your patio, install edging for your patio made of common backyard patio materials like brick or stone. This will define the patio.
Then fill in the useable area of the patio with a thick and dense grass turf. This idea is sure to give you the feel of a traditional patio without giving away the luxury of still having grass in your backyard.
Does one these backyard patio ideas appeal to you? If not, don’t be discouraged. You can make your backyard patio fantastic in so many ways. Just be creative and the right idea will come to you! For more information visit www.patio-ideas-guide.com.