A nature lovers’ paradise
By Dick Buyer
The tractor growled as it navigated up and down grassland hills, crawling over bumpy terrain, sometimes swerving left and right, traveling between trees, occasionally halting.
It was a brief trek for an abbreviated tour of the botanical wealth of the sprawling George Landis Arboretum in Esperance, in Schoharie County.
The American Heritage dictionary defines an arboretum as a “place for the scientific study and public exhibition of many species.” However, this site definitely stretches way beyond the formal meaning.
Now in its 55th year, the Landis Arboretum was established in 1951 by Fred Lape, a Renaissance man devoted to the arts. Located an hour’s drive west of Albany, it is a mecca for gardeners and environmentalists, comprised of 548 acres of property, and 2,000 labeled specimens of trees, shrubs and perennials from around the world. Thirty acres are devoted to old growth forests and gardens. There are also eight miles of hiking trails overlooking the picturesque Schoharie Valley. It remains the only “Garden of Trees and Shrubs” in the Capital Region, and approximately 6,000 people visit the Arboretum each year.
In addition, this flower and tree paradise is an educational center, an area for bird watching (more than 100 species) and is ideal for astronomical observations and special events, including weddings.
The Arboretum consists of a 19th century farmhouse, now serving as administrative offices and gift shop, a restored 1830 English barn, the Bernard Harkness Library housing the Baim Herbarium (a collection of dried plants mounted and labeled for use in scientific study), the William T. Raymond Greenhouse (for plant propagation) and a meeting house used by various groups and for cultural events.
An old tree
The tractor stopped at a laced fenced area on top of the hill where there stood an enormous tree with limbs soaring 85 feet into the air.
“That’s our signature tree,” explained driver, Fred Breglia, head of horticulture and operations.
He is a tall, lanky man who exudes an encyclopedic knowledge of this complex and has an obvious passion for his job. The tree, called “The Great Oak,” is more that 400 years old and is located near a strand of trees termed an “ancient forest”, which was recently acquired, doubling the size of the Arboretum’s acreage.
According to Bruce Kershner, authority and author of The Sierra Club Guide to Ancient Forests of the Northeast, “This is a forest untouched since the Revolutionary War.” It is one of three in eastern North America—the others are located at the N.Y. Botanical Gardens in the Bronx, and Rutgers University in New Jersey.
Lovers of leaf and fauna will revel in a 40-acre section devoted to several horticultural collections, which contain 1,000 labeled specimens. Representing most of the growth in the state and the northeast, they include: Lilacs (60 varieties), Rhododendrons, Crabapples (30 varieties), Conifers, Oaks, Buckleya Distichophylla (endangered species growing in the Southern Appalachians), Specimen Trees and Outstanding Shrubs and Tough Trees for Tough Sites.
Each of these collections has an interesting nugget of data associated with it. Consider Tough Trees: The Arboretum contains 75 of the 100 varieties of trees suitable to grow in urban environments. From these, homeowners and municipal officials visit the site to determine whether the tree’s form, size and type can fit into a specific location.
Other collections include Perennial Gardens where visitors can enjoy flowering perennials, which feature bulbs and dwarf conifers, and Natural Areas, which offer an opportunity to enjoy and study native plant ecosystems, the effect of undesired invasive species, endangered plants, and the region’s forest communities. A recently acquired woodlot on 47 acres serves to show how landowners can harvest their woodland without damaging the ecosystem.
Back in time
The Arboretum began on the Oak Nose Farm, a 19th century dwelling in Esperance, the boyhood home of founder Fred Lape. After earning a degree in English from Cornell, he taught briefly at Stanford, and later at RPI in Troy before returning to the farm to pursue writing. Although a prolific writer, his efforts were financially unproductive.
However, enamored with variations of trunk, limb and leaf, he pursued the path of a horticulturist by aspiring to grow every species of woody plants from temperature zones around the world that would survive in the hills of Schoharie County. Lape began by planting trees, which attracted others who shared his interest, including George Landis, a friend, academic colleague and plant collector. Landis helped to establish the Arboretum by leaving a substantial bequest to Lape after his death in 1950. The complex was named for the “friend who made it all possible in life and death.”
Lape began accumulating species’ samples from nurseries, seed exchanges from botanical gardens, plucking the wild and from other arboreta. A unique collection of hardy trees and shrubs resulted from his consistent efforts and propagation until his death in 1985. Two familiar names identify his crossbreeding projects: Rhododendron x ‘Esperance’ and Syringa vulgaris ‘Schoharie’ (lilac).
Lending a hand
To maintain this natural kingdom requires the efforts of at least 100 volunteers who perform a whole spectrum of chores, including pruning, irrigating new trees, mowing, fertilizing, mulching and training new recruits. On one of our tractor stops, volunteers were “dead heading” lilacs to encourage spring growth.
Volunteer Erin McKenna of Esperance is a fourth-year student at nearby SUNY Cobleskill. She started last March as an intern and must complete 600 hours in order to receive her degree in plant science.
“I’ve always had an interest in gardens so it really doesn’t feel like a job,” said McKenna.
Her big project is to restore the Levan Loveland garden, named after a banker, and financial advisor who is credited with incorporating the Arboretum as an education institution. Originally a pigsty, Loveland chose the area because of its abundant fertilizer. Some of his original plants are still thriving, seducing visitors for a look.
As we strolled through the garden, I learned that (incredibly), one of the plants has a local political connection! The ‘Betty Corning Clementis’ is named after the wife of the long-time former Democratic mayor (more than four decades) of Albany.
Year ago, after admiring a plant she thought to be a clementis on Pearl Street in Albany, the owner allowed Betty to take a portion of the plant to propagate and submit for assessment. Its name unknown, Betty wanted to name it after the city of Albany, but there already was a clementis called the ‘Dutchess of Albany’. Later, the city decided to name it after its discoverer, Betty Corning.
Sitting on a bench near the barn, was a three-decade volunteer, Herm Finkbeiner, of Clifton Park. “Our mission is educational,” he said.
Finkbeiner recalled that Lape was still alive when he and his wife started volunteering there.
“Fred had some definite ideas and money was a problem, prompting him to rely on others for help,” said Finkbeiner. Smiling, he claimed there was a “friendly rivalry” between [advocates of] trees and flowers.
The Arboretum satisfies its educational mission by offering a variety of outdoor programs for students in grades K-6, workshops on wildlife topics, garden tours, lectures, demonstrations, and guided and self-guided tours. It also offers two certificates in horticulture in conjunction with SUNY Cobleskill’s plant science department.
As a non-profit, the Arboretum financially sustains itself by fundraising (an annual Spring plant sale in May it’s largest source, membership dues (700), donations and special activities, such as last month’s Summer Solstice Soiree and Garden Party with WAMC radio personality, author and garden designer Larry Sombke.
In a sense, Lape’s dream of assembling an immense public garden may be symbolized as a seed (idea) eventually maturing into a majestic oak (Arboretum). It is a showcase of nature where individuals and families can enjoy its beauty in a spectacular setting.
The Landis Arboretum is open annually and is free to the public. A $5 donation is suggested from non-members to help maintain the grounds. For additional information on its many programs, call 875.6935 or visit www.LandisArboretum.org.