Travel notes: Newport, RI
By Mary Beth DeCecco
While many Capital Region residents like to get away to the beaches of Cape Cod, I dip further south on 495 for my favorite spot—Newport, RI.
An idyllic, scenic town, Newport epitomizes the best that New England has to offer: picture perfect homes, tree lined streets, white picket fences, sailboats, history and more.
Located a mile east of Jamestown across the Newport (Pell) Bridge, Newport’s history dates back to colonial times, when it was an early center for shipbuilding and trading, as well as the birthplace of the Unites States Navy. In the 19th century, it became the focal point for trade with China and the whaling industry before becoming a playground for the wealthy during the Gilded Age.
Today, Newport is a major tourist attraction. It hosts the Jazz and Folk Festival and the Newport Music Festival, which draw thousands every summer.
To fully experience this special place, you should treat yourself to a stay at a quaint inn in the heart of town. Perfectly fitting that bill is The Hydrangea House Inn on Bellevue Avenue. The Hydrangea House offers a full gourmet breakfast (think scrambled eggs in puff pastry, raspberry pancakes, fresh fruit and granola) in an elegant dining room and plenty of personal recommendations from owners/innkeepers Dennis Blair and Grant Edmondson. On top of that, there is also off street parking, affording you the opportunity to park the car and enjoy the town on foot, getting to know it in a more intimate, personal way. In fact, the parking was one of the deciding factors for the pair when they purchased the property nearly 20 years ago. “That’s one of the reasons we loved the site,” said Edmondson. “This was one we thought we could make work because of the onsite parking, which is a premium in town.”
Checking in
My fiancé and I arrived in Newport on Labor Day and weren’t the least bit surprised with the sheer volume of people and energy in town. After all, it’s a beach town and this was the unofficial last day of summer. We proceeded up America’s Cup Avenue to Bellevue Avenue, where we instantly glimpsed the lavender sign for the Hydrangea House Inn.
Upon entering the Inn, we were pleasantly greeted by Blair and Rosie, his friendly poodle. Always the curious one, I had to find out about the Inn’s history. I learned that it consisted of two properties—one dates back to 1876, the other to 1856. The downstairs has seen its share of retail shops over the years, including an ice cream parlor, a hair salon and a liquor store that was once patronized by King Edward following his abdication of the British throne.
Before Edmonson and Blair purchased the building, it was used as a dental office and accounting firm. Edmonson used his construction background to help with the initial remodeling, while Blair, a former antiques dealer and shopkeeper in town, used his business savvy to turn the Inn into a premiere place to stay.
We followed Blair up to our room. On the way, we passed two decks, where you can enjoy your morning coffee or tea while relaxing on the wicker furniture or simply luxuriate in the sun. Our room, called the “Winter Garden Suite”, was located on the third floor, and was everything that we expected: at 665 square feet, it was the second largest suite in the nine-room inn, and featured a two-person Jacuzzi tub, a expansive shower room, a romantic fireplace and a brass king bed circa 1875. There was also a flat screen television positioned above the fireplace that doubled as a gold-framed mirror when the TV was turned off.
Enjoying Newport
There is so much to see and do in Newport that it’s best to have a plan. Since I had an itinerary planned for the following day, we decided to take it easy upon our arrival. Aimlessly strolling along the streets, we wound up on Thames Street and America’s Cup Avenue, which meanders along the harbor. On the way down the hill, we stopped for a delicious pizza at a Nikolas Pizza on Memorial Boulevard. We were even lucky enough to get a table outside and do some people watching.
There are as many shops as you can imagine in downtown Newport, including chains like Gap and Brooks Brothers, as well as several independent stores such as Pleasant Surprise and Newport Candle Company. Like any boardwalk area, there are a fair amount of t-shirt stores. Brick Marketplace and Bowen’s Wharf also offer eateries and shops near the water.
A spot to hit while visiting is The Newport County Convention & Visitors Bureau on America’s Cup Avenue, adjacent to The Marriott. Here, friendly employees will help you plan your day. You can buy tickets to the mansions and museums and tours of all kinds, including trollies and buses, harbor cruises, walking tours and harbor tours. And while you’re here, you should inquire about the Ghost tours. Guided by a woman attired in Victorian garb, the tour will spook you with stories that you won’t find in the history books!
The more adventurous may wish to forgo the guided tours for one of Newport’s self-guided history tours. Following signposts, you can walk the streets of downtown Newport while learning about its history and many architectural styles. Check out the Newport Colony House, the fourth oldest American state house that is still standing. Mayor John Handy read the Declaration of Independence from the front steps in 1776 and General Rochambeau entertained George Washington in 1782. Or, visit St. Mary’s Catholic Church, where then Senator John F. Kennedy married Jacqueline Bouvier.
Of course, no trip to Newport would be complete without a trip to the mansions on Bellevue Avenue. Similar to those found on my recent trip to Rhinebeck, NY, these homes were once the palatial summer “cottages” of influential families in Gilded Age America, including the Vanderbilts and the Astors. There is The Breakers, The Elms, Marble House, Rosecliff (featured in “The Great Gatsby” with Robert Redford and Mia Farrow), the Isaac Bell House, Kingscote and Belcourt Castle, the only home offering tours that still has the owner living there. And just to the rear of the mansions is the breathtaking “Cliff Walk”, a scenic 3.5-mile walk along the back lawns of many of Newport’s finest historic mansions that offers sweeping views of the ocean.
On day two, we enjoyed a harbor cruise (which I highly recommend) and a trip to the wineries, as well as another leisurely stroll through town. Of course, you can’t forget about the beaches. But no matter where you go, you will find that Newport is an alluring, mesmerizing town. And trust me: once you come here, you’ll want to return every year. And the best part? You don’t need to wait for the summer to enjoy this seaside town! In fact, the locals insist that autumn is the best time to experience this wonderful city. So why not pack up that parka and head for the sea? You won’t be disappointed.
Hydrangea House Inn is located at 16 Bellevue Avenue in Newport, RI. For more information visit www.hydrangeahouse.com or call 800.945.4667. For more information on Newport visit www.gonewport.com.